Found on eBAY: Shell Necklace – USA

INFORMATION CHECK:

"Antique .. circa 1910": Possibly but could be much later ... " Tasmanian Aboriginal": Almost certainly not ... most likely somewhere tropical ... Hawaii? ... The Philippines? ... " maireener shell necklace": Certainly not ... "color and lustre natural": Quite likely ... Reference to this type of shell necklace on THIS LINK has been misinterpreted.

There are so many inconsistencies here yet in some ways the misreadings made outside the cultural context within which a cultural product belongs are forever likely. It is even happening in Tasmania but the 'misreadings' come with very local imperatives to do with complex issues.

The somewhat curious thing with this offering is the use of the word "maireener" and its currency on eBAY. The evidence is beginning to stack up for this being "a convenient truth". Why? What is so convenient? Albeit convenient, if that is what is reflected here, the paucity of research behind the word's use is starting to look like it is something other than curious.

NOT MAIREENERS – Leis From Hawaii

Clearly these shells are NOT Tasmanian 'maireener' shells albeit that they are described as such. Nevertheless, they are a part of an important indigenous Hawaiian cultural practice which in many ways parallels Tasmanian shell necklace making.

The "HAWAIIAN" cum "TASMANIAN MAIREENER SHELL" lei/necklace confusion is perhaps understandable but here it might be more to do with 'catching a buyer' than being correct. However, many 'traditional leis' including shells like these continue to command prices exceeding top end Tasmanian shell necklaces – Aboriginal production or non-Aboriginal production.

NB: the pink necklace is almost certainly dyed

CLICK HERE FOR A LINK ON LEI MAKING

HOBART NECKLACES

CLICK ON THE IMAGE TO ENLARGE

The text in the photograph reads

"SOUVENIRS OF TASMANIA
DESIGNED AND MANUFACTURED
BY A. BUTTERFIELD
VISITORS SPECIALITIES
TAS PHOTO CHARMS (Gold Mounted)
SHELL SPOONS (Sil Mounted)
SHELL SUGAR TONGS (Sil Mounted)
CAPE CLASPS (Sil Mounted)
SHELL BROACHES (Gold or Sil Mounted)
SHELL LINKS (Gold or Sil Mounted)
SHELL BREAST PINS, SHELL HAT PINS
SHELL NECKLETS, TAS WOOD STICKS

JUST A LITTLE TRIFLE TO KEEP THE MEMORY GREEN"

and it indicates that Butterfield had made the shell necklace depicted.The Tasmanian State Archives has this photograph in its collection. It is dated Circa 1898 and it depicts a display of Tasmanian "souvenirs designed and made" by a Mr A. Butterfield. It is significant that the image is framed by a necklace of the kind worn by Truganini and Fanny Cochrane Smith in period photographs of them.

It may well be a photographic record of what have become known as "Hobart Necklaces" made by non-Aboriginal makers in Tasmania by A Butterfield and more than probably others as well.

A variety of souvenirs, many incorporating shells, are included in the display but the central card bearing the text makes no reference to the Tasmanian Aboriginal people or their culture. They are, however, appropriated as icons of 'Tasmanian-ness'. The photographic images of Truganini and William Lanne, is of some interest.

In claiming to have designed and manufactured the 'necklace', Butterfield was clearly exploiting the curiosity value of the shells, their connection to Tasmanian Aboriginal culture and their Tasmanian-ness. In linking this Tasmanian-ness to the Tasmanian Aboriginal people and their cultural products he was reassigning its meaning and placing it in a colonial context. The other work that Butterfield depicts in the photograph point to the curio value of the necklace and this to some extent depends upon its Tasmanian Aboriginal connections and Tasmanian colonial associations—a kind of exotic otherness.

This 1898 'Butterfield' photograph seems to suggest that for over a century shell necklaces have had currency as souvenirs of Tasmania in the European population. George Augustus Robinson's reference to the making of shell necklaces being a 'cottage industry' in 1836 suggests that they were seen by the colonists as being in some way 'valuable' quite early on. There are also reports from the 1940s of a minister of religion on Cape Barren Island buying the 'mairreeners', presumably for resale on the Tasmanian mainland or for some other purpose.

Any additional information about this photograph or non-Aboriginal shell necklace makers of any kind would be welcomed by the research network. Email any information to shellnecklaces@7250.net

NETWORKER'S NOTE: A member of the network has told us of a jewellery shop in Hobart on Liverpool St. that seems may have some connection with the name "Butterfield". A Mr. Butterfield worked there in the 1970s. We are wondering if this may have even been the bussiness related to the photograpph above.